Wednesday, May 4, 2011

I've Moved!

As of May 1st, I moved up into the hills, to Plateau Caillou. This is a beautiful western city looking out over the Indian Ocean. It's incredible how quickly the climate and temperatures change depending on where you are in Reunion Island. The mountains are known for their departure from the hot, dry temperatures of the low-lying beach communities. On my first night in the new place, I felt the sensation of cold for the first time in months.

Moving from La Saline was a project and a shocking discovery in how much stuff one accumulates in a short period of time. Ms. Austria, the dear helping hand, assisted in digging me out of the rat's nest I had somehow constructed for myself over the past year. Miraculously everything fit into the car and--more or less--into my new room.

I am living with the Jean-Jacques family: friends I met over the course of this past year. Everyone describes our house ambiance as a "courant d'air." At any given time there can be as many as seven of us and as few as one. My role is "Native English Speaker" and I keep the party alive with hilarious miscommunications and international dinners. It's a nice change from my quiet studio life. Now that my high school teaching contract is over, I'm working less and finding it fun to spend time with humans.

My new house:

And my new dog (who comes included with the house):

Monday, May 2, 2011

School's Out!

The end of April saw the end of my teaching contract on Reunion Island. For the two weeks leading up to this untimely finish, my students and I celebrated the momentous goodbye with copious amounts of grease. After day three of class parties: ie, chips and soda for breakfast, I proposed whole grains and fruits. This plan was rejected by 99% of the population.

It may not have been the healthiest string of events, but we certainly had fun. Different classes organized different activities and presentations to mark my departure. One group cleared all of the tables and chairs in the classroom and taught me how to break dance. Obviously I excelled. Another group sang traditional songs and jumped on the desks. I had to be firm with my frown face. On my very last day, one class prepared an entire Réunionais Créole lesson for me. They may have laughed more than I learned: an American accent is not a common occurrence in this language. But they had fun (at my expense).

Here are some Creole riddles that I had to decipher. You have to figure out what vegetable the riddle is referring to:

Ti bonom grand shapo.
Small gentleman with a big hat. (mushroom)

In ti rouz, tap in gran blan.
Little red one that taps big white ones. (red chile)

Mon rob lé ver mon kilot lé rouz.
My shirt is green and my underwear are red. (tomato)

Mon san lé cayé sou la ter.
My blood is curdled under the earth. (beet root)

One of the sweetest gestures came from my bakery students who, on their last day, presented me with a serving tray. It is a beautiful wooden platter with a "Reunion Island" motif that is also, incidentally, made from the heaviest and densest wood known to mankind. It is large--extremely large--and takes three people to carry. I have not figured out how I will fit it into a normal-sized suitcase or box for my return to the States.

Friday, April 29, 2011

My Pet Bird

If you look closely, next to the little rug in my kitchen, you will see my bird. He was only mine for a few seconds. But a very nice few seconds they were.

Thursday, April 28, 2011

The Great Easter Egg Hunt



The days leading up to Easter were also the days leading up to several dear friends’ departures. In order to celebrate a year well done, we decided to hike the Roche Ecrite. I did this hike in January and had a nice little adventure by way of car vandalism. This time we took the trail from Le Brûlé in St. Denis where there is a large and secure parking lot surrounded by sharpshooters. Breathing with confidence and feelings of security, team 99% Germany, 1% America we were off.

Unfortunately the first leg of the trip was riddled with rain and mud. We slipped and slid up the mountain, eventually reaching the campsite well beyond nightfall. Thomas, who had gotten a head start with his mother and brother (who were visiting), met us at the gite in La Plaine des Chicots with a wild look in his eyes. Apparently his family, who was now peacefully eating a hot meal in the gite’s large mess hall, had hated every step taken in the rain and mud. “That’s strange,” I pondered to myself.
The rest of the team--there were 6 of us--didn’t drag our tents and food up the crater for nothing. We quickly got to work setting up camp in a field near the gite, much to the owner’s dismay. “Do you think he wants us to move?” someone asked, as a man with daggers and angry eyes circled the tents. “No, I think he’s glad we’re here!” was general consensus.

Very early the next morning, our alarms shook us awake. The tent people had snoozed through a pretty chilly night, while the gite people--ie: Thomas’ family--had suffered through a really cold night. Learner’s mistake: even on tropical islands,1000 m above sea level, you need a sweater. Angry with icicles on their eyebrows, the family warily considered the summit ahead. The rest of us turned our head lamps on, hopped to it, and were off in the early morning darkness.

As you approach the summit of the Roche Ecrite, a process that takes about two hours, you are met by a pretty ambiguous and vast rock face. Little bushes shroud the mountain and white arrows are painted into lava to indicate the trail. It’s extremely easy to get lost because everything looks the same. Fortunately, through a miracle of God and my pure eagle eye strength, we made it to the top without getting lost. Sunrises over vast mountain ranges are mighty nice.It was COLD up there, but we managed to light a little fire, heat some coffee, and enjoy breakfast with a view. Several hours later--it took us that long to eat--someone realized that we had never seen the "Thomas crew." We packed up, headed down, and shortly ran into a tempest of family feuding.

What had happened was this: the early morning was cold, dark, and generally unfavorable for people who hadn’t packed warm clothes and were forced to light up the trail with cell phones. They got lost. So lost, in fact, that they started to panic. Eventually, in the very far distance, Thomas saw a man that he decided to chase in order to find the trail. During the sprint of his lifetime, Thomas dropped his pack somewhere in the vast mountain savannah. The man was a mirage, it was impossible to retrace his steps, and the pack was swallowed into the ambiguous scenery. We arrived in time to see mother and son reunited, followed by mother cutting son from the family tree.

Ms. Austria, always calm and collected in times of great stress, separated the two adversaries, and led Thomas’ mother down and away, back to the gite where we had come from. Thomas, now with a clear head, was able to confirm that he had no idea where on the face of the planet his bag had gone.

What is Easter without an Easter Egg Hunt?

A human chain was formed with a very clear and simple mission: recover the pack or don’t come back
Find the pack or don't come back...
It took over an hour of combing through every leaf, reed, and blade of grass on the Roche Ecrite, but the plan was flawless. Dear Britta, Germany’s newest star, triumphantly waved the bag through the air from a distance and Thomas fell to the ground, one happy bunny.

The rest of the trek was a breeze. Thomas and I skipped back up to the summit because, after all, we were so close. We made it down in record time, the family was reunited, and I think everyone’s talking again...

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Happy Easter

Despite the distance and the fact that the "Easter Bunny" does not exist on Reunion island, he still found his way into my apartment and left these beach treats. Happy Easter!

Friday, April 1, 2011

All in a Day's Work

Now that I'm back in Reunion, I thought I would show you, dear readers, all that it's possible to see in one day here!